Saturday, December 4, 2010

Guide to the Guide

Over the summer, Bay Ridge's food scene was put under the microscope in Sherri Eisenberg's Food Lovers' Guide to Brooklyn. We begrudgingly share a chapter with Dyker Heights and Bensonhurtst, but at the very least, the author was sensible enough to understand that of the three neighborhoods, ours is first and foremost.

Eisenberg's writing is largely focused on the neighborhood hot spots. Each chapter (including the one on Bay Ridge) consists of four sections: "Foodie Faves", "Landmarks", "Specialty Stores" and "Food Events". It presents a positive image of Bay Ridge by keeping to our more popular establishments. Her vanguard totes popular restaurants like Grand Sichuan House, Areo and Al Safa.

When it comes to specifics, Eisenberg speaks generously. She praises particular dishes or discusses local favorites. Her quick explanation of the obscure Egg Cream is especially exciting, because most of her local favorites are more popular.

Eisenberg delivers criticism respectfully, but perhaps not often enough. She earns a nod for mentioning Areo's exclusivity (wear your best pinky ring), but she seems reluctant to go any further than that. Similarly, her selection of restaurants is limited by positivity. None of her reviews are focused solely on the negative aspects of a restaurant--or strictly warning against it. We can all think of at least one place we'd tell a friend never to visit.

If there is one striking problem with the book though, it's that the survey of Bay Ridge is fairly superficial. It overlooks many of the newer or less-known neighborhood favorites. Pegasus, 86 Noodles and Kettle Black are among the notable establishments that were omitted from her guide. These are the gems that locals look for because of their obscurity.

Although the guide is unsuitable for the needs of Bay Ridge regulars, Food Lovers' Guide to Brooklyn is fantastic for an overview. It will represent Bay Ridge well to curious Brooklyn foodies by showing our good side and its best smile.

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