Guide to the Guide

Over the summer, Bay Ridge's food scene was put under the microscope in Sherri Eisenberg's Food Lovers' Guide to Brooklyn. We begrudgingly share a chapter with Dyker Heights and Bensonhurtst, but at the very least, the author was sensible enough to understand that of the three neighborhoods, ours is first and foremost.

Eisenberg's writing is largely focused on the neighborhood hot spots. Each chapter (including the one on Bay Ridge) consists of four sections: "Foodie Faves", "Landmarks", "Specialty Stores" and "Food Events". It presents a positive image of Bay Ridge by keeping to our more popular establishments. Her vanguard totes popular restaurants like Grand Sichuan House, Areo and Al Safa.

When it comes to specifics, Eisenberg speaks generously. She praises particular dishes or discusses local favorites. Her quick explanation of the obscure Egg Cream is especially exciting, because most of her local favorites are more popular.

Eisenberg delivers criticism respectfully, but perhaps not often enough. She earns a nod for mentioning Areo's exclusivity (wear your best pinky ring), but she seems reluctant to go any further than that. Similarly, her selection of restaurants is limited by positivity. None of her reviews are focused solely on the negative aspects of a restaurant--or strictly warning against it. We can all think of at least one place we'd tell a friend never to visit.

If there is one striking problem with the book though, it's that the survey of Bay Ridge is fairly superficial. It overlooks many of the newer or less-known neighborhood favorites. Pegasus, 86 Noodles and Kettle Black are among the notable establishments that were omitted from her guide. These are the gems that locals look for because of their obscurity.

Although the guide is unsuitable for the needs of Bay Ridge regulars, Food Lovers' Guide to Brooklyn is fantastic for an overview. It will represent Bay Ridge well to curious Brooklyn foodies by showing our good side and its best smile.

Sweets Spotlight: Mini-Series Brought to You By...

It seems strange to say the little building which plays host to Bay Ridge Bakery houses a titan of the Bay Ridge food scene, but it's undoubtedly the truth. Along with Your Baker, it represents the pinnacle of our local dessert scene. It was inevitable that some of their less pricey treats would end up here.

If there's anything Bay Ridge can appreciate, it's likely a cannolo (cannoli is the plural). It only makes sense then, that a miniature cannoli would be just as appealing! For the uninitiated, a cannolo consists of a fried, tubular pastry shell with a sweet filling. In this iteration, it features a few small chocolate chips. These are sold by the pound, but individually go for about $1.25 to $1.50. Given the price, it's a small treat, but it's tasty and not without charm.

Less popular, but still worthy of praise is the miniature éclair. Consisting of soft, confectioner's dough, a light chocolate topping and a creamy, sweet filling, it hits all of the major notes one expects from a pastry: inside, outside and dressing. This will only last two or three bites, but each one s a series of sensations. Start with a soft bite and stop abruptly to avoid cutting right through the custard and clapping your teeth together. Like the cannolo, it's in the sub $1.50 range.

The last of the mini-pastry smörgåsbord comes in the form of a tasty strawberry tart. A strawberry crowns the soft, sweet dough shell, but it's not the only one present. After the first bite, one will find a second, equally enticing strawberry lurking inside of the crust. Heavier, it makes sense for this delight to cost more. At about $2.50 each, it's the most expensive of the miniatures.

I Wanna Be a Muffin Man

Muffins are like sophisticated cupcakes without the icing. That's part of what makes them in many cases, very bland. One can spice them up with blueberries or smear butter in an effort to liven it up, but realistically speaking, the muffin is hardly the go-to for most of Bay Ridge. However, there's nothing boring about the Red Velvet muffin from Five Star Bagel.

The muffin does its namesake justice, with the majority of its soft, spongy form taking on the appropriate flavor between chocolate in vanilla. In this example, the slider strays more toward the cocoa bean, but the hint of vanilla is key. Baked fresh in the morning, so long as one gets to this muffin before it's gone, it's a perfect way to perk up before the daily commute. Unlike many such machinations, this bundle of boo-ya doesn't lose its appeal after the first few bites. It's good from start to finish and like most of its brothers and sisters, doesn't go poorly with a bit of butter or a toast.

Backyard B.B.Q Scandal: Restaurant Actually In Doors

Up until a year ago, it seemed like barbecue lovers in Bay Ridge were left with no way to satisfy their cravings near home. That all changed with the arrival of Uncle Jimmy's Backyard B.B.Q. Changing the landscape, it provided a way to get something that was otherwise impossible to find: a real rack of ribs.

The key word when you're mapping out how to tackle a plate of Uncle Jimmy's ribs is "messy". There's no way to get in, out and look like a gentleman. Throw that one out the window and start thinking baby bibs and wet wipes. The sauce is plentiful, sweet and just smoky enough not to be juvenile. The meat is succulent and tender, falling off the bone with as little as a prod with an inquisitive finger.

Delicious is the right word to use, but so is caution. This plate of tasty pork isn't cheap. A half slab with two sides will run $14.00 and for the adventurous and hungry, a full rack is $22.00.

Dump me? Dump Ling!

It is truly regrettable that the most under appreciated dish at dinner is the appetizer. There's a lot to be said for something that makes you hungrier after eating it. Is that not some sort of feat in and of itself? This is precisely what the chicken dumplings from 86 Noodles succeeds in doing.

These are easily the best chicken dumplings in the neighborhood, outdoing all of the alternatives from the litany of Chinese restaurants in the neighborhood. The noodle is shaped traditionally, but still maintains much of the softness one associates with pasta. When fried, it's cooked primarily on one side, heating the meat and leaving the dumpling with two distinct textures: one slightly crunchy and the other firm but wavering. The filling is just the right level of prepared when served, each piece of chicken residing in that special, moist place between uncooked and dry. Finally, the dipping sauce is a fantastic mixture of low key sweetness and the more potent sour flavoring. Don't be fooled. It isn't soy sauce in a cup.

At just $4.50 for a plate of six, there are few reasons not to order a plate of these with your next big meal at 86 Noodles.

Sweets Spotlight: Cheese Filling? Are You Surprised?

When one imagines a dessert associated with Middle Eastern food, the first thing which comes to mind is typically baklava. This isn't a bad thing. That stuff is tasty and often hits the spot when a craving for honey arises. Still, there are other options. The gyro has other partners in crime, such as the the low profile and inexpensive cheese halawa served at Karam.

A cheese halawa, as the name might imply, consists primarily of sweet cheese. It's wrapped in a small, nearly tasteless pastry shell that serves to keep it together more than to add anything to the dish itself. The filling itself has a consistency that's tougher than most confections, but is still clearly of a delicate nature. It's in the grey area which separates creamy and spongy. It still falters easily beneath steady chewing, avoiding the awkward horse chomp that more rubbery deserts require. Mystery spices provide the biggest bursts of sweet flavoring in the form of curious pebble-shaped nuggets of deliciousness.

It's a subtle treat that may strike the palate abruptly, but has all the hallmarks of a more mature after-dinner pastry. At $1.50 a piece, it's foolish not to try one.

Gyro Wars: The Phantom Menace

All eateries serve food, but not all eateries have wheels. Mobility is a simple thing to overlook in a food cart, until it's gone. The 86th street strip spans from fourth to sixth avenue and features three gyro carts, all of which are a staple except one: the illusive green wagon.

This quiet challenger makes appearances in the 86th street area once every few months, but always leaves in less than a week. Why the owners wish to be so mysterious is unclear. What is apparent though, is that this buggy brings a completely different taste to contested territory.

A cursory glance at both the chicken and lamb gyro don't yield any immediate findings: a pita wrapped around the choice meat, lettuce, tomato, cucumber and white sauce. But, there's more here than what one initially sees.

First, there's the new approach to chicken. This chicken, unlike that presented by the other two competitors is sweet. There's lingering traces of honey-like flavor, contrasting sharply with the usual emphasis on garlic.

Second, the sauce here is altogether different. It has a thicker consistency and a more minty taste to it, lending itself more to salads than sandwiches. A copious amount of veggies helps balance the equation, making for a well-balanced wrap worth its price.

With good comes bad in this case, as not everything is spectacular. Regrettably, unlike its brother-in-bread, the lamb falls short of being special and sinks into the pit of being hard and dry. Likewise, it's better to avoid the falafel, given they look and feel like burs.

For the low price of $3 a sandwich, it's obvious why in some cases the food is sub-par, but where this kitchen excels is its ingenuity. It has a wider menu, offering lamb chops and other less available plates that smaller carts can't produce. More importantly, this place offers a different take on the traditional chicken wrap, making its rare appearances worth celebrating as a divergence from the norm.

Originally posted November 3rd, 2010

Five Dollar Feasts: Mex Without The Tex

If one can get passed the gaudy colors and overtly stereotypical trappings, Chiquitita harbors something Bay Ridge desperately needs: Mexican food untouched by the "Tex" prefix. The menu features typical fare ranging from tacos to burritos. What's special though, is that for the quality served up here, most of the victuals are satisfying and affordable.

Most Mexican food served at restaurants here consist of largely the same stuff: meat, a tortilla and some type of vegetable mix. What mostly separates one eatery from the next is the quality of the ingredients and the time of cooking. There are of course, innovations in spice choice and taste. You see a sharp increase in caliber in both when comparing Chiquitita to its Tex-Mexican competition.

The tacos and fajitas served up include freshly cut vegetables and meats grilled when ordered. Depending on the type of filling, one will taste a different array of spices that are both savory and refreshing. The chili con carne, essentially a beef and bean chili mixture, is the most heavily spiced up of the options and is lightly spicy. Conversely, the chicken and steak primarily rely on the smoky flavor of the grill itself. All three are tasty in their own way.

Given that the food is awesomely fresh, it's almost shocking that any taco or fajita is less than $5. The quesadillas are a little more expensive, but outside of the shrimp and steak are also in the same price range. The major downside is that because the food is made when ordered, the wait is often long. Sitting patiently for twenty minutes isn't out of the question when eating or ordering out at Chiquitita.

The Ridge Tastes Good (Take 2)

Today I made one of the wisest investments of my relatively short life. I proudly supported St.Patrick's parish by attending their annual event, A Taste of the Ridge. For a meager $12, I helped keep the Church going and was able to gorge myself on the fare of 39 restaurants from around the neighborhood. With the amount of diverse, local gourmets present, I was pleased at how much I got for the price.

Given the quality and variety of the food, it's no surprise that the place was packed. Names like Lai Yuen, 101 and Arirang can draw a crowd. There was still plenty of good food to go around though, even if some had to eat it while standing.

The head count didn't do anything to prevent me from trying as many of the foods available as I could. With so many popular vendors in attendance, I was positive that my favorite dishes would come from the big names. I was surprised to find that the most memorable chow didn't come from among the usual suspects. Rather, they were unexpected delights from two particular stalls I almost overlooked.

Naomi and Jennifer represented their home based company Krazy Lady Cheesecakes. I've had a lot of cheesecakes before, but these were exquisite. The samples, small circles with fresh fruit toppings, were soft but firm enough to provide the perfect amount of resistance against chewing and tasted exceptional. Their selection was wide, featuring the staples strawberry and blueberry, but included the lesser sought after flavors like pumpkin. These easily constituted the best dessert available, effortlessly competing with the Court Street outsider Monteleone's Bakery. Regrettably, these ladies don't have a shop. Instead, they take orders via phone (718-685-9996) and e-mail. They are all business however and will take your orders with all the same seriousness.

When I go to a restaurant, I typically look toward the flavors most associated with it. That's why when I visit my favorite eateries, I usually don't order the buffalo wings. Tom Casatelli from The Kettle Black and his Jameson wings have convinced me to reconsider that stance. This chicken flies right off the plate. Hickory flavoring and a just above mild level of spiciness combine to make a wing you could eat in the summer without issue. While Tom didn't bring anything but two sets of wings with him, that's all he needed. I'll be visiting Kettle Black for the first time as soon as I get the chance. Their selection of wings is diverse, but I know which one I'll be ordering ahead of time.

While I do praise these two for their exceptional offerings, I caution anyone who attends against not making the effort to try as much food as possible. While the task of sampling anywhere from 10-15 different sets of penne can be daunting, it's not unrewarding. There wasn't a single plate at A Taste of the Ridge that I wouldn't have finished. Additionally, even if there's a bit of overlap or a particular dish isn't suited to a person's interest, the assortment makes it easy to just move on. I would regret it if I had skipped over Sofia's just because I already stopped by Pipin's Pub.

The people were friendly and happy. That might have had something to do with the amount of food they were consuming, but that doesn't matter. At the event, I saw nothing but laughter and eating. The staff, despite gouging the price of water ($1 for 8oz bottles) was helpful and eager to assist. Even the volunteer servers were all smiles.

Besides having to pay a little too much for the beverages, there isn't much to complain about. The parish knows their stuff. There's no speeches or lengthy lines to stand in. They don't stand between anyone and satisfying the hunger they came to abate. My biggest gripe is simply that I will have to wait another year before I can stroll by and enjoy the entire thing again.

Originally posted on April 25th, 2010

Sweets Spotlight: My Baker Made Me...

The danish is a simple enough affair. It consists of a shell, a filling and sometimes a topping. Similarly, the black and white cookie is nothing more than a unification of two types of fondant and soft yellow cake. Yet, due to the nature of baking and confectioner ingenuity, these treats can come in many different forms. Not all of these incarnations are equal. YourBaker's take on the cheese danish and the relatively uniform black and white cookie make it obvious that even the simplest formulas leave room for tasty innovation.


Fresh is the key word when discussing these delicacies. Your Baker's pastries are soft and receptive to the gentle chewing one associates with baked goodies. The yellow cake of the black and white cookie stands out because it's moist and spongy, unlike most of the other alternatives near 86th street, which are dry and more akin to bread than a confection.

The danish is an excellent example of subtle creativity, the simple aspects given a tune-up with the addition of confectioner's sugar and soft crumbles as toppings. Still, what really sells it is the most base element: the cheese. It has a gentle taste better suited to mature palates. Resting between the overly sweet packaged goods at bodegas and the typically bland filling of most local bakeries, it leans slightly in the direction of zest without tripping into it face first.

iEat with an Urban Spoon

The advent of the smart phone has changed the way people do just about everything. If there isn't already an application that showcases the many ways to tie your shoes already, there will be one soon for the upcoming audience of tech-savvy toddlers. It makes sense then, that there's an array of gadgets available to help with something we do every day: eat. One of these however, stands out more than the rest because it doesn't only give you ways to answer the popular question of "where do I eat?" It picks a place for you!

Urban Spoon's "shake" feature is something altogether fun and different than what the alternatives provide. With as little as a single button press, it will randomly select a place to eat in your immediate area.

The interface, reminiscent of a slot machine, consists of three parts. First, there's the area. If you leave this box "unlocked", it will always default to the area you're in according to your phone. Second, there's the types of food in the area. It can be very specific or largely broad. In two spins, you might get "Italian", but immediately after also get "Pizza". Lastly, but far from least important, there's a field which represents costs in a series of dollar signs. The more dollar signs, the more expensive. Lock this in at one symbol to keep your prospects in a fair price range.

There's no limits to how many times one can spin in a session and sometimes it may take a few gambles to arrive at a place that satisfies an obscure hunger. Once satisfied, all the standard tools of reference are another touch away: map, directions, phone numbers, reviews and the ominous thumbs up or down button people love to abuse.

Urban Spoon satisfies most practical desires relating to food. It provides a list of nearby restaurants, relevant information and reviews, it even picks eateries for indecisive patrons. It's an all-encompassing application with the twist of appealing to everyone's inner-gambler.

McDonald's Delivers Shot to Ribs

There are few things in fast food which are genuinely exciting. Every so often, one of the bigger chains will release a new item that attracts a great deal of short-term attention. The item, depending on its success will either be added to the permanent roster or dumped entirely. One item more than any other transcends this trend: the coveted McRib.


While a potent force in the food world all on its own, the creative (or wicked) marketing strategy McDonald's employs with the McRib is what has garnered the sandwich a near-cult following. The McRib makes yearly "farewell" tours around the country, emerging at seemingly random spots. Available for only brief stints in each area, it vanishes the same way it appears, silently.

It's this mysterious habit which has inspired fans to create websites dedicated solely to reporting where the McRib has been seen. Expect to see entries listing the 86th and 4th McDonalds because it's being sold there now!

Sweets Spotlight: Sir, There's no Egg in my Eggcream.

Hiding somewhere in the evolutionary chain between the cocoa bean and the chocolate milkshake lurks the Egg Cream. Having fallen out of fashion, this treat is often forgotten. Luckily for people in Bay Ridge, Hinsch's Confectionery is a veritable time portal. Step through the door, arrive in the 80s and enjoy a sip of this hard-to-find but easy-to-enjoy beverage. For the low price of $1.50, the only excuse not to is laziness.



For those of you unfamiliar with the elusive egg cream, it's fairly simple. First, there's no eggs or cream. It consists chiefly of chocolate syrup, seltzer water and milk. Don't be intimidated. It sounds like a cheap milkshake and it is, but it has a taste all its own. Featuring a light, frothy head, each sip is bubbly. There's a mild chocolate taste, with the carbonation from the seltzer mostly flattened out. In the end, it touches your palate like coffee; The first sip is bitter, the second sip is better and the third produces an out of body experience.

Five Dollar Feasts: Imagine if Bacon Were Good For You

Looking for something tasty, but cost effective? Tired of the dollar menu? Five Dollar Feasts is here exclusively to highlight the middle ground which separates expensive and cost effective without falling into the fast food trap.

Bacon will never be good for you, but it will always be tasty and relatively cheap. This makes it a prime candidate for meals which cost less, but still tickle the palate. Nothing captures the very essence of bacon like breakfast does and not a thing summarizes breakfast in New York City like the Bacon, Egg and Cheese sandwich.
Five Star Bagel on 5th, between 86th and 87th has challenged that notion, however. Not by just making the best Bacon, Egg and Cheese on a bagel in the neighborhood, but by making it affordable and available all day. At $3.00 a piece, it's a marvel that people in Bay Ridge are as healthy as they are with Five Star Bagel around.

The secret is in the bagel itself. While best in the morning, the firm, slightly crunchy shell and soft, puffy inside are appealing at any time.

Hannah, Are You New Here?

If you spend a lot of time around 86th street, you may have seen Hanna's Grocery Store, on 85th, between 4th and 5th. Perhaps, you passed by without giving it a second glance. However, that will be much more difficult now that it has evolved into a health food friendly fruit stand. With its new look (interior and exterior), Hanna's previously overlooked grocery store may now get some much craved attention.

Hiatus Haiku

Summer sun sets now
Winter looms ahead
Pancake with a smile

Translation: Over the summer, your local chew enthusiast took a brief break from the hustle and bustle of food writing. Fear not, however, for the baddest set of teeth on the block has returned to continue bringing the (chewed up?) chow you crave. Articles of all types and sizes are forthcoming. I know some of you just can't wait though, so I found a great recipe to play with in the meantime. It's a surefire way to help you start the day off with a smile. It's not local to Bay Ridge, but how could you say no to this?

Wing King Sings

During the Taste of the Ridge, I met Tom Casatelli, the owner of Kettle Black, a restaurant and bar on the corner of 87th and 3rd. About a week ago, I had the privilege of sitting down with him a second time, this time prepared with questions regarding the man and his business. Over the course of the interview, he revealed the origins of his establishment, his favorite Bay Ridge restaurant and the pros of being part of the food scene here.

Q: My understanding is that you went from firefighter to bartender to owner of the kettle Black. How did that come to be?

A: "Actually, I was a bartender before I was a fireman. I started when I was 18. I bounced, then one night, a bartender didn't show up. I was asked to step behind the bar and they liked me. I was in the marines, my friend was a firefighter. He convinced me to take the test. I was #2 on the list. After 9/11, I was in the process of retiring... I was bartending earlier, I always loved it. I just went and did it [opened the Kettle Black]. I took out a home equity loan on my house."

Q: Do you think the investment was worth it?

A: "It was worth it."

Q: Do you still get behind the counter from time to time?

A: "No, I think I've bartended twice. Yeah, I was so busy running the place I couldn't enjoy it."

Q: Do any of your skills from your past professions help with managing the restaurant?

A: "The marine corps, gave me the self confidence necessary. The fire department taught me if you want something, don't wait for it. It could be gone tomorrow."

Q: Do you think there's a balance between restaurant and bar at the Kettle Black?

A: "There's a balance, because I love to cook. I enjoy the challenge. We wanted a fair place where people could eat economically."

Q: Do you feel like the restaurant and bar community in bay Ridge is supportive or competitive?

A: "It's supportive, because when I first opened up, we helped each other. We're all tight, we're all friends. If you nickel and dime in this business, you'll be out of business."

Q: Is there anything you think is a problem?

A: "You can go from the best to the worst in one evening."

Q: What role do you play in deciding what the menu looks like at the Kettle Black?

A: "I pretty much created the original menu. And also the recipes. My committee has changed it since then."

Q: Do you help prepare any of the food?

A: "I don't anymore. I was cooking the chili. The original recipe, we used to cook, me and my brother.It was fun trying to find the right cheese. Everything."

Q: Is there a dish you're particularly fond of?

A: "I'm really proud of all the wings. We wanted to do something different with the wings. We just did the wing competition in green point. We were voted people's choice."

Q: You were at the Taste of the Ridge recently. Do you attend other charity or community events?

A: "I'm on the board [of the Taste of the Ridge]. If you've ever heard of the Bay Ridge Music Festival, I run that. We raised $25,000 last year. We're giving out $100 in gift certificates and beer to charities a week."

Q: If you could give one piece of advice to aspiring restaurateurs in the area, what would it be?

A: "Don't do it unless you want it with every bone in your body. I worked 12 hours a day for two years. It's like a baby."

Q: Is there one thing in particular you enjoy about owning the kettle black more than the rest?

A: "I love the people, the friends I've made. I love seeing repeat customers. People who come in and the waitress brings them their usual before they order."

Q: A Do you have a favorite restaurant or two you like to eat at when you're not at the Kettle Black?

A: "I love Chadwick's and any pizzeria in a five mile radius."

There Was a Haus on The Ridge

How do you tell the difference between a bar and a German restaurant? Bars sell beer, German restaurants just happen to carry enough to be mistaken for a bar. Yes, it's a bad joke. Yes, it's true. Why do you care? Because this is good information to have before you decide if you want to step into Schnitzel Haus, Bay Ridge's premier (and perhaps only) German restaurant.

Schnitzel Haus, on the outside, has all the trademarks of a neighborhood tavern. Wood panels, few windows and some depictions of beer brand names team up to make this place look like just another pub. There's no doubt that this makes it intimidating to some, because not everyone relishes the saloon experience. However, the subtlety of the interior contrasts sharply with the liveliness of the interior. With steins and other German trappings lining the walls, soft lighting and glossy wooden fixtures, the whole place looks a lot more enticing. It carries on the theme set up outside, but accentuates it in ways which mellow out the presence of the bar.

The menu at Schnitzel Haus, like the atmosphere, is entirely German. The entrée titles are written in German, but are accompanied by descriptions which help guide the reader through the experience, without leaving them stranded. Pork, beef, sausages and Schnitzel make up the bulk of the dinner menu here. To accompany the food, Schnitzel Haus boasts a selection of 42 beers, most of which are imported.

To start our lunch, my accomplice and I decided to start with a soup appetizer, the spicy Goulash soup. Tasty would be an unjust word to use to describe it. The meat was tender and cut small enough to flow with the soup. Vegetables, not limited to the conventional potato and carrot, are similarly chopped up and soft. There's no need to chew anything. It was undeniably spicy, but far from inconveniently hot. Rather, it added to the taste and experience of the final product, without making it the focus.

Next came the entrées, starting with the steak sandwich. The cut of meat is likely prepared medium rare or medium well. The browner, hotter meat on the edges gradually gives way to the softer, pink center, a sign that it's sliced after being cooked. It's then served on the bread of your choosing, with mushrooms, cheese and onions as dressing. The combination makes for a diverse combination of consistencies and tastes, with the steak being slightly overpowered by the cheese, but not in an unforgivable way. I'm bold enough to say it's better that way.

The steak sandwich, while delectable by itself, is served with Kartoffelsalat, German potato salad. It looks different because it's prepared with vinegar instead of mayonnaise, sports bacon bits and is served hot rather than cold. The taste, as one would expect, isn't even remotely similar. Bacon and vinegar, contrary to what I had imagined, makes for an amazing combination. They compliment potato, an unlikely ally, very well.

The last entrée was the Chef's grandmother's specialty, Sauerbraten, a sort of pot roast. The meat itself was delicate at the edges and a little tougher toward the center, but still delicious. The sweet and sour gravy accompanying the meat was the real attraction though, with it setting the tone for every savory bite of beef. Apply it generously before forking anything into your mouth for the best result.

It's traditional to serve Sauerbraten with red cabbage and potato dumplings. However, I wonder if these were originally introduced to make the meat itself look better through contrast. While fragrant, the red cabbage has such a robust taste that if you're not well adjusted, you will likely grimace a bit. It's not bad, so much as it's so bold you can't have more than a bite or two at a time. The dumpling, unlike it's fellow side dish, is almost completely tasteless. It's edible with a bit of the sweet and sour gravy, but at that point it just becomes a gelatinous platform for advancing the gravy's agenda (world domination, I reckon).

As the lunch winds down, our dessert is brought in, Apfelstrudel. This isn't your deli's apple strudel, though. That crispy, flaky, mess of a pastry and this confection are only related in name. The shell is soft, but resistant enough to lead to a satisfying chewing experience. Underneath, the apple filling is lukewarm and flavorful. The powdered sugar on top is negligible and wholly unnecessary, but makes for a beautiful presentation. On the side, a scoop of soft vanilla ice cream sits atop some vanilla sauce. Altogether, a powerful presentation and plate.

When all was said and the food was (mostly) consumed, the bill came in. It made its presence felt, known and ultimately, it inspired fear. It read as followed: Gulasch Suppe $5.50, Steak Sandwich $11.00, Sauerbraten $10.50 and Apfelstrudel $6.00. That's $33.00 before tax and tip.

It's important to know that these were also reduced prices. These were the lunch special prices. The steak sandwich isn't featured on the dinner menu and the Sauerbraten is typically $17.00. A normal dinner here is going to be good, awesome even, but also pricey.

There are ways to reduce the bill, such as going in during lunch specials (Noon to 4pm, weekdays) or the working man's happy hour (weekdays 4pm-7pm). The menu is however, watered down a little during these times. So, don't expect to walk in and get Chicken Cordon Bleu or a Fillet Mignon for $10.00. You can however, get a respectable selection at reasonable prices if you go in at the right time. Dropping the dessert and soup will also save a lot of money, anywhere from $10 to $20 depending on the combination.

Service at Schnitzel Haus was good, with helpful servers, expedient food trafficking and no flaws in what we ordered. What I found most pleasing was our server was acquainted with both the food and beer selection and didn't mind answering a few questions about either. If you're anxious about ordering something with a German name, don't be. Ask and be enlightened.

Schnitzel Haus is a fine place to go for a dinner date or a better-than-McDonald's lunch. It's pricey, but the ends justify the means in this case. If you're looking for German food, this is about your only option, but it's better that it be expensive than lack quality. I would recommend it to anyone with the expendable income.

If you're looking for lunch or dinner, Schnitzel Haus is open from 11:30am to 10pm, seven days a week. On Fridays and Saturdays, it's keeps the doors open until 3am. It doesn't do breakfast. Ever. If you want to learn more, you can stroll into their location at 7319 fifth avenue or call 718-836-5600.

Pols Vote for More Pierogi

If you're like me, you may not have polish food very often. In fact, your knowledge of such cuisine may be limited to Mrs. T's frozen goods. I wasn't comfortable with such a ceiling, so I decided that I would open things up a bit by looking for a place in the neighborhood. My search yielded Polonica, a place I had passed on occasion, without ever giving it a second look. To find out if my unobservant tendencies were something to regret, as well as expand my proverbial horizons, I set out to try my first real polish restaurant.

Polonica, next to its neighbors, appears subtle. The dark blue banner and white script don't pop quite as much as the brightly colored signs flanking it. To say it's easy to pass would be an understatement.

Inside, things liven up a little. Yellow animates the walls, despite the soft lighting. Plastic trees bring a little bit of much needed life to the scene. Smells of the kitchen, just a few feet from the eating area, waft in occasionally to revive waiting patrons.

While it's small, this never seems to hamper movement once you sit down. Before then, it can be restricting with heavy luggage. To make things easier on everyone, it's best to pack light. Otherwise, you'll probably get a nasty look when you wade through the cramped space and accidentally hit an old lady.

The menu, to the laymen (like me), is diverse, but particularly intimidating because of the polish dishes retaining their original names. However, the owners include a brief description of each meal to keep it familiar yet authentic. Additionally, the server/chef/owner isn't shy about answering any questions about the food (or pronunciation). Since it's not every day that I get to sample Polish food, I decided to try each course they offered, beginning with soup.

Cucumber soup, as I came to find, really tastes more like pickle than anything else. The sour taste is accented by a mildly creamy texture and chunks of polish cucumber (which is pickled, thus the taste). This soup, while to the liking of my companion, was a little too tangy for me. During my next visit, I will likely try the White Borscht (Żurek) instead.

After the soup came the pierogi. For those unfamiliar, this is akin to a ravioli or dumpling in appearance. They consist of a dough shell and filling. You can stuff it with just about anything. Typically, these are prepared through frying (harder, crunchy) or boiling (softer, not as tough).

Despite a bit of initial indecision, we eventually settled on having potato pierogi, boiled and served with sour cream. I wasn't disappointed by the result. On their own, each dumpling was soft and easy to chew. The filling, which was lightly seasoned with pepper, was fluffy and tasty. A bit of sour cream really made this combination something special though. It adds a welcome bit of texture to each bite that's absent otherwise. Every order is accompanied by caramelized onions. Not only are these delicious, but they are included.

While pierogi are an appetizer, each plate could easily stand on its own as a dish for one. With the ability to personalize them to such a dramatic extent, they have the potential to satisfy even the pickiest eater.

Between the appetizers and main courses, a small plate of vegetables, which was referred to as salad, is provided as part of the cost. There's no cucumbers and tomatoes here, though. This plate is filled with anything but your ordinary fixings. To start with, the most abrupt taste is the sauerkraut. True to its name, it's sour, but without being overwhelming. Next up, minced beets, which were surprisingly sweet. A bit of red cabbage helps keep the taste buds moderated. Sliced carrots and coleslaw complete the quintuplet, preventing things from becoming too unfamiliar. In the center, a slice of lettuce lathered in creamy Italian dressing. A part of me expected it to be something more exotic, but no, it's creamy Italian.

When I got my entree, I was half-surprised, half-intimidated. The stuffed kielbasa, in all of its glory, was a sight to behold. I couldn't even see the sausage at first. Several strips of crispy bacon wrapped tightly around the circumference left nothing but the edges exposed. Cheese, which couldn't be contained seeped out of the middle.

Besides the obvious anatomical jokes a man has to overcome when eating a wiener, I was faced with a problem. How do I even eat this thing? Previous experienced pointed to bread, but I had no such luxury. Left with little other choice, I cut it into segments, based on where the bacon ended. My first bite, was magical. The crunch of the bacon, followed by the utterly satisfying snap of the sausage, pursued by the taste of the cheese made for an amazing clash of textures and sensations. The mustard offered may be a blessing for some, but this dish was ultimately satisfying in its own right. The kasha (buckwheat) on my plate made for a poor combination, but it can be substituted for mashed potatoes.

Pyzy, a plate of potato dumpling, filled with mushrooms made up the last entree of the day. Served with a bit of sauce and fried onions, these dumplings are like a pierog's much softer, gooier cousin. The outside is chewy and reminiscent of gelatin, but firmer. It has a weak taste. However, once you reach the filling, also known as the promised land, there's a revitalization of the senses. If you can get at least a little of the inside with each bite of the outside, it balances to leave the palate satisfied. However, without such discipline, the meal might end up a series of sharp ups and downs.

Polonica doesn't carry typical confections anymore, but they do have something equally satisfying: blintzes. A blintz is a shell, similar to a pancake, but crispier and tougher, rolled around what is typically a fruit filling. It's then re-fried lightly. At the chef's recommendation, I had mine with cherry and cheese. The result wasn't an average, indulgent sweet, but a savory, tough dessert.

The bill was a little higher than I would prefer, but give the quality and quantity of the food, it seems appropriate. The break down: pickle soup $2.75, pierogi $5.25, Stuffed Kielbasa $9.95, Pyzy with Mushrooms $8.80 and Blintzes $6.20. With sales tax of $2.88, the total was $35.88. After the tip, the final tab is $40, if you believe in gratuity.

There are easy ways to save on the bill at Polonica however. So, don't be too intimidated by the cost. We had a lot of food left over. Each dish is so filling that a meal with several courses is superfluous. Dropping the soup and dessert alone lowers the tab by nearly $10. They are, by a wide margin, the least cost effective dishes on my bill. A plate of pierogi can also replace an entree, further reducing the cost for those looking for a cheaper alternative.

Service here also helps justify the bill, to an extent. While the server was incredibly helpful and polite, she was also vacant often. My understanding is that she helps prepare the food, so this is to be expected. However, during peak times this will lead to delays in service. Regardless of how swamped the staff is, they maintain their pleasant disposition, though. With that explanation in mind, the service is good, but the restaurant is understaffed. Expect problems that prop up as a result of that.

For those looking for a small bill, Polonica, even after my tips, won't be the place for you. The quality and quantity do come at a price. However, if you're looking for awesome pierogi or other good, polish food, this is a place you can wisely (and safely) invest in. Don't be surprised if there are delays in service, due to the small staff. If you want to experiment, ask the server for guidance first to avoid disappointment.

Polonica is open six days a week. Tuesday through Thursday, from noon to 10pm and Friday to Sunday, from noon to 10:30. It's closed on Monday. If you want to order take-out, you can call at (718) 630-5805 or take a stroll in at 7214 3rd avenue. Be warned, there's a fee for delivery before 5pm.

Nutella me? Nutella you!

When I was a kid, a slice of pizza was a slice of pizza. There was dough, tomato sauce, some cheese and usually, it was served hot. While that was swell, these days the image and taste of one of Bay Ridge's favorite treats is changing in ways most of us couldn't have seen coming. In the last decade, specialty slices have been making their mark on the food scene. Most of these have been small steps forward. A vodka slice here, a buffalo slice there. Mancini's Pizza however, in its brief three week occupation of 8504 5th avenue (the grave of Mediterranean Pizza), has skipped the crawling in favor of outright sprinting. Their introduction of a Nutella slice will forever change the way Bay Ridge patrons look at what was once, a straight forward (sort of) Italian dish.

My first glimpse of Mancini's was not one I would've remembered. The black and red banner doesn't do much to bring in a customer. My second look though, was what brought me inside. The front of the store, which is made up of glass panes, allows prospective eaters (if they can see passed the plants) to catch a glimpse of what is, in terms of pizzerias, a fairly classy place. The color palette, comprised of mostly earthy hues, is warm and persuasive. Leather cushions line booths that are typically the fare of diners, not local pizza spots. To top it all off, a clay chef, clad in apron and a lopsided hat watches over the happenings.

I will admit that when I first stepped in the door, I didn't know what I was going to order. When I stepped up the sneeze guard, I was tempted by their titillating array of slices. One stood out immediately though, despite how inviting everything looked. I couldn't immediately identify it, but with some help from the friendly woman behind the counter, I came to understand that it was a Nutella slice that caught my eye. The spread and dessert toppings made it mysterious but alluring.

The remainder of the menu was standard of a pizzeria, with sandwiches and pasta flanking slices as staples. With 29 variations of pizza on the menu though, the task of choosing how to proceed was daunting.

My accomplice and I eventually agreed, the scandalous dessert-turned-dinner was the first thing on the list for us to try. However, I wasn't about to go without sampling the foundation of any good pizzeria, the standard slice.

The Nutella slice, once in front of me, was intimidating. With a thick crust that you can't easily fold, I was immediately out of my comfort zone. I was goaded forward though by the prospect of sampling the litany of toppings which complimented the spread. Strawberries, blueberries, marshmallows and bananas were this scandalous slice's pepperoni and mushrooms.

My first bite was framed by a mixture of consistencies. The crunch of hardened dough, one slice of strawberry to keep it resistant and a bit of mushy banana to ease it down. I learned that in this environment, Nutella thrives. With a cast of other sensations to help bring down it's intense, rich flavor, it was perfectly tasty and tolerable, rather than overbearing as I feared it might be. A few less cautious nibbles later, the blueberries and melted marshmallows eased their way into each bite, helping to suppress the spread's boldness, while elevating the overall punch of the dish.

People are varying degrees of picky about how they like their standard slices, but Mancini's has a strong middle ground slice which could keep just about anyone happy. The crust isn't terribly tough. It lends itself to folding well, but not scarfing. The proportion of cheese to sauce was perfect, with neither becoming overwhelming. What I especially liked was that it was soft enough to be easily chewed, without becoming a chore. Nothing is worse than pizza that's reminiscent of a rubber band.

The bill was a little high, given that Mancini's is a pizzeria. With two slices at $2.25 each, two fountain drinks at $1.75 each and the Nutella slice at $3.75, the tab was $11.75. That's not high at first glance, but considering that there are two other similar establishments within a block which provide similar service for slightly less, it's important. The drinks, which are self-serve, are free-for-refill, which helps justify the cost.

Service at Mancini's also helped ease the extra money out of my pocket. Unlike the alternatives, the staff are pleasant and eager to help. They appeared unperturbed by my barrage of questions and more than anything, genuinely interested in making small talk.

If you're looking to watch the game, have a bite and hang out, Mancini's a good alternative to a bar. It's expensive for a pizzeria, but the extra cost is worth the atmosphere.

Still, if you're a bargain hunter, then this may not be the place for you. The extra quarter here and there adds up and the tab will probably be a dollar or two higher than if you were to walk down the street.

I intend to head to Mancini's a second time. More than likely, I will go a third and even a fourth. It's a nice little place, with the pizzeria food I want, the comfort I enjoy and people who are helpful, rather than annoyed when you ask them to do what they're paid for.

Mancini's is open from 10am to roughly midnight, seven days a week. If you're interested in learning more about them, I recommend taking a stroll in, rather than calling. To order take-out, you can call (718)-680-1700.

Revisiting a Greek Legend

Recently, I took a trip over to Pegasus, on 86th and 3rd with the intent to do what no grown man has done before (with a straight face): order chicken fingers. For those of you who aren't familiar with the name, Pegasus is a Greek, family owned diner. I've heard it called the best breakfast joint in Bay Ridge, which has the potential to be true. However, my mission didn't involve eggs over easy. Through some unusual channels, I heard that this place, of all things, made some amazing chicken fingers. It was such a strange compliment, I just had to try them. So, I put on my worst fancy shirt, stuffed my wallet with someone else's money, and went to lunch.

My first impression of Pegasus was a positive one. The store front is pleasant to look at and the interior is no different. This isn't the fanciest place in the neighborhood, but it's got style. The aesthetic is reminiscent of the old diners one might see in an 80s movie, brought up to date with a fresh coat of paint and trendy, colored chalk on black boards.

At roughly noon, the place was busy, but not overwhelmingly so. That's why I was disappointed to wait for nearly five minutes to see a server. The wait left me feeling impatient, but that was eased by the fact the waiter was polite.

The menu at Pegasus is diverse, including your standard diner fare, an array of health friendly items (wheat substitutes, egg whites, etc) with a dash of Greek cuisine on the side. The prices are a little intimidating at first glance, but typical for a restaurant like this. Oddly enough, they don't serve fountain drinks. They do carry a decent selection of canned and bottled beverages to compensate.

As I planned, I ordered the chicken fingers. I didn't expect them to be enough, so I picked up a grilled cheese as well. My lovely accomplice opted for wheat pancakes with blueberries to test the claims of bodacious breakfast.

Our food arrived quickly. I'm happy to say that my chicken fingers, as promised, were amazing. I was expecting something similar to what you purchase in the frozen food isle (long chicken nuggets), as I've seen my younger relatives have at other establishments. I was pleasantly surprised to see that they were more substantive than that. The cuts of chicken were obviously breaded and cooked up when ordered. Fresh is the first word that came to mind. Served on a plate full of fries, the dish was a lot more filling than I anticipated. The grilled cheese I ordered as a safety net was wholly unnecessary.

Being the curious foodie I am, I couldn't help but take a bite of my companion's pancakes. They're a simple idea, but Pegasus really carried through on it. The blueberries were perfectly mixed into the batter. There were just enough for flavor, but not so many as to overwhelm the taste of the dish itself. Neither side was burned and the texture was perfect. I've had many a pancake in my life, but I would feel comfortable saying that this was easily one of the best. Their iteration of the pancake left me excited to see how their list of creative and delicious sounding omelettes would grace the palette. I can't speak for all of their morning fare, but these pancakes certainly reinforce the idea that these guys and gals do breakfast well.

Regrettably, the service here only got worse once the meal began. I had to flag down the bus boy for more water repeatedly. When I was ready to leave, I waited for almost 15 minutes before deciding to get up and request the check. I've heard that asking is standard procedure here, but this was a little much. At one point, I considered just walking out. If the food wasn't so satisfying, I might have done just that.

When I finally got the check, I was delighted to see the damage wasn't as severe as I assumed. Pancakes $6.00, Grilled Cheese $3.75, Chicken Fingers $8.50. With tax, the total was $19.85. For just under $20 (strike the grilled cheese in the future) we ordered a tasty meal for two. While it's not the most optimal pricing plan, it's adequate for the better-than-Burger-King meal you should expect from a diner. It's worth keeping in mind that we skipped out on sodas and stuck with water, though, inadvertently cutting down on costs.

Excusing the less than amazing service, Pegasus is certainly as good as I had heard. Maybe, it's a little better. I would recommend it to anyone with a desire for tasty pancakes or a surprisingly scrumptious chicken finger. The menu supports several visits with variety each time. I don't doubt most of it is good if they can turn a chicken finger or pancake into something extraordinary.

The price, seems appropriate given the quality of the food. However, it's still higher than some of the nearby alternatives on 86th street of similar, albeit lesser quality. The same meal, at Amalia's up the block would probably cost $5 less, but wouldn't taste quite as good.

This place isn't for anyone without the patience to deal with a server who loses interest after a patron is fed. If you're sensitive to this sort of thing, it's better to keep your distance and avoid the frustration. Or, maybe order-in. At least then you will avoid any contrasting ideas between your idea of service and theirs.

Pegasus is located on 8610 3rd Avenue. It's open from 7 am to 6pm on standard week days. On Sunday, the hours become scant and the doors shut at 3pm. If interested in learning more or ordering, you can drop in or give them a call at (718) 748-6977‎.