There Was a Haus on The Ridge

How do you tell the difference between a bar and a German restaurant? Bars sell beer, German restaurants just happen to carry enough to be mistaken for a bar. Yes, it's a bad joke. Yes, it's true. Why do you care? Because this is good information to have before you decide if you want to step into Schnitzel Haus, Bay Ridge's premier (and perhaps only) German restaurant.

Schnitzel Haus, on the outside, has all the trademarks of a neighborhood tavern. Wood panels, few windows and some depictions of beer brand names team up to make this place look like just another pub. There's no doubt that this makes it intimidating to some, because not everyone relishes the saloon experience. However, the subtlety of the interior contrasts sharply with the liveliness of the interior. With steins and other German trappings lining the walls, soft lighting and glossy wooden fixtures, the whole place looks a lot more enticing. It carries on the theme set up outside, but accentuates it in ways which mellow out the presence of the bar.

The menu at Schnitzel Haus, like the atmosphere, is entirely German. The entrée titles are written in German, but are accompanied by descriptions which help guide the reader through the experience, without leaving them stranded. Pork, beef, sausages and Schnitzel make up the bulk of the dinner menu here. To accompany the food, Schnitzel Haus boasts a selection of 42 beers, most of which are imported.

To start our lunch, my accomplice and I decided to start with a soup appetizer, the spicy Goulash soup. Tasty would be an unjust word to use to describe it. The meat was tender and cut small enough to flow with the soup. Vegetables, not limited to the conventional potato and carrot, are similarly chopped up and soft. There's no need to chew anything. It was undeniably spicy, but far from inconveniently hot. Rather, it added to the taste and experience of the final product, without making it the focus.

Next came the entrées, starting with the steak sandwich. The cut of meat is likely prepared medium rare or medium well. The browner, hotter meat on the edges gradually gives way to the softer, pink center, a sign that it's sliced after being cooked. It's then served on the bread of your choosing, with mushrooms, cheese and onions as dressing. The combination makes for a diverse combination of consistencies and tastes, with the steak being slightly overpowered by the cheese, but not in an unforgivable way. I'm bold enough to say it's better that way.

The steak sandwich, while delectable by itself, is served with Kartoffelsalat, German potato salad. It looks different because it's prepared with vinegar instead of mayonnaise, sports bacon bits and is served hot rather than cold. The taste, as one would expect, isn't even remotely similar. Bacon and vinegar, contrary to what I had imagined, makes for an amazing combination. They compliment potato, an unlikely ally, very well.

The last entrée was the Chef's grandmother's specialty, Sauerbraten, a sort of pot roast. The meat itself was delicate at the edges and a little tougher toward the center, but still delicious. The sweet and sour gravy accompanying the meat was the real attraction though, with it setting the tone for every savory bite of beef. Apply it generously before forking anything into your mouth for the best result.

It's traditional to serve Sauerbraten with red cabbage and potato dumplings. However, I wonder if these were originally introduced to make the meat itself look better through contrast. While fragrant, the red cabbage has such a robust taste that if you're not well adjusted, you will likely grimace a bit. It's not bad, so much as it's so bold you can't have more than a bite or two at a time. The dumpling, unlike it's fellow side dish, is almost completely tasteless. It's edible with a bit of the sweet and sour gravy, but at that point it just becomes a gelatinous platform for advancing the gravy's agenda (world domination, I reckon).

As the lunch winds down, our dessert is brought in, Apfelstrudel. This isn't your deli's apple strudel, though. That crispy, flaky, mess of a pastry and this confection are only related in name. The shell is soft, but resistant enough to lead to a satisfying chewing experience. Underneath, the apple filling is lukewarm and flavorful. The powdered sugar on top is negligible and wholly unnecessary, but makes for a beautiful presentation. On the side, a scoop of soft vanilla ice cream sits atop some vanilla sauce. Altogether, a powerful presentation and plate.

When all was said and the food was (mostly) consumed, the bill came in. It made its presence felt, known and ultimately, it inspired fear. It read as followed: Gulasch Suppe $5.50, Steak Sandwich $11.00, Sauerbraten $10.50 and Apfelstrudel $6.00. That's $33.00 before tax and tip.

It's important to know that these were also reduced prices. These were the lunch special prices. The steak sandwich isn't featured on the dinner menu and the Sauerbraten is typically $17.00. A normal dinner here is going to be good, awesome even, but also pricey.

There are ways to reduce the bill, such as going in during lunch specials (Noon to 4pm, weekdays) or the working man's happy hour (weekdays 4pm-7pm). The menu is however, watered down a little during these times. So, don't expect to walk in and get Chicken Cordon Bleu or a Fillet Mignon for $10.00. You can however, get a respectable selection at reasonable prices if you go in at the right time. Dropping the dessert and soup will also save a lot of money, anywhere from $10 to $20 depending on the combination.

Service at Schnitzel Haus was good, with helpful servers, expedient food trafficking and no flaws in what we ordered. What I found most pleasing was our server was acquainted with both the food and beer selection and didn't mind answering a few questions about either. If you're anxious about ordering something with a German name, don't be. Ask and be enlightened.

Schnitzel Haus is a fine place to go for a dinner date or a better-than-McDonald's lunch. It's pricey, but the ends justify the means in this case. If you're looking for German food, this is about your only option, but it's better that it be expensive than lack quality. I would recommend it to anyone with the expendable income.

If you're looking for lunch or dinner, Schnitzel Haus is open from 11:30am to 10pm, seven days a week. On Fridays and Saturdays, it's keeps the doors open until 3am. It doesn't do breakfast. Ever. If you want to learn more, you can stroll into their location at 7319 fifth avenue or call 718-836-5600.