Sunday, May 2, 2010

Nutella me? Nutella you!

When I was a kid, a slice of pizza was a slice of pizza. There was dough, tomato sauce, some cheese and usually, it was served hot. While that was swell, these days the image and taste of one of Bay Ridge's favorite treats is changing in ways most of us couldn't have seen coming. In the last decade, specialty slices have been making their mark on the food scene. Most of these have been small steps forward. A vodka slice here, a buffalo slice there. Mancini's Pizza however, in its brief three week occupation of 8504 5th avenue (the grave of Mediterranean Pizza), has skipped the crawling in favor of outright sprinting. Their introduction of a Nutella slice will forever change the way Bay Ridge patrons look at what was once, a straight forward (sort of) Italian dish.

My first glimpse of Mancini's was not one I would've remembered. The black and red banner doesn't do much to bring in a customer. My second look though, was what brought me inside. The front of the store, which is made up of glass panes, allows prospective eaters (if they can see passed the plants) to catch a glimpse of what is, in terms of pizzerias, a fairly classy place. The color palette, comprised of mostly earthy hues, is warm and persuasive. Leather cushions line booths that are typically the fare of diners, not local pizza spots. To top it all off, a clay chef, clad in apron and a lopsided hat watches over the happenings.

I will admit that when I first stepped in the door, I didn't know what I was going to order. When I stepped up the sneeze guard, I was tempted by their titillating array of slices. One stood out immediately though, despite how inviting everything looked. I couldn't immediately identify it, but with some help from the friendly woman behind the counter, I came to understand that it was a Nutella slice that caught my eye. The spread and dessert toppings made it mysterious but alluring.

The remainder of the menu was standard of a pizzeria, with sandwiches and pasta flanking slices as staples. With 29 variations of pizza on the menu though, the task of choosing how to proceed was daunting.

My accomplice and I eventually agreed, the scandalous dessert-turned-dinner was the first thing on the list for us to try. However, I wasn't about to go without sampling the foundation of any good pizzeria, the standard slice.

The Nutella slice, once in front of me, was intimidating. With a thick crust that you can't easily fold, I was immediately out of my comfort zone. I was goaded forward though by the prospect of sampling the litany of toppings which complimented the spread. Strawberries, blueberries, marshmallows and bananas were this scandalous slice's pepperoni and mushrooms.

My first bite was framed by a mixture of consistencies. The crunch of hardened dough, one slice of strawberry to keep it resistant and a bit of mushy banana to ease it down. I learned that in this environment, Nutella thrives. With a cast of other sensations to help bring down it's intense, rich flavor, it was perfectly tasty and tolerable, rather than overbearing as I feared it might be. A few less cautious nibbles later, the blueberries and melted marshmallows eased their way into each bite, helping to suppress the spread's boldness, while elevating the overall punch of the dish.

People are varying degrees of picky about how they like their standard slices, but Mancini's has a strong middle ground slice which could keep just about anyone happy. The crust isn't terribly tough. It lends itself to folding well, but not scarfing. The proportion of cheese to sauce was perfect, with neither becoming overwhelming. What I especially liked was that it was soft enough to be easily chewed, without becoming a chore. Nothing is worse than pizza that's reminiscent of a rubber band.

The bill was a little high, given that Mancini's is a pizzeria. With two slices at $2.25 each, two fountain drinks at $1.75 each and the Nutella slice at $3.75, the tab was $11.75. That's not high at first glance, but considering that there are two other similar establishments within a block which provide similar service for slightly less, it's important. The drinks, which are self-serve, are free-for-refill, which helps justify the cost.

Service at Mancini's also helped ease the extra money out of my pocket. Unlike the alternatives, the staff are pleasant and eager to help. They appeared unperturbed by my barrage of questions and more than anything, genuinely interested in making small talk.

If you're looking to watch the game, have a bite and hang out, Mancini's a good alternative to a bar. It's expensive for a pizzeria, but the extra cost is worth the atmosphere.

Still, if you're a bargain hunter, then this may not be the place for you. The extra quarter here and there adds up and the tab will probably be a dollar or two higher than if you were to walk down the street.

I intend to head to Mancini's a second time. More than likely, I will go a third and even a fourth. It's a nice little place, with the pizzeria food I want, the comfort I enjoy and people who are helpful, rather than annoyed when you ask them to do what they're paid for.

Mancini's is open from 10am to roughly midnight, seven days a week. If you're interested in learning more about them, I recommend taking a stroll in, rather than calling. To order take-out, you can call (718)-680-1700.

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